"And I say thee NAY! Buttericks" and the Versatile Blogger Award and Prize.

Wow - first let me say thank you to all who chimed in your thoughts - either for or against the Buttericks plus sized wardrobe in my last post. I can see that most are as insulted as I am.

There were some great thoughts and I am certainly appreciative of them all.

Many of you talked of a sloper and adjusting the pattern - and of course I thought yes - I am a proud sewcialist - I can use my skills for good!!

I believe I have a sloper for the dress with my TNT McCalls 2401 that I have been working on - I am sewing it with a non stretch woven at the moment.

I will definitely be taking a page out of the queen of the TNT tamperers, Carolyn's book with using this TNT to make patterns work for me.

Hence I have ordered the second wardrobe pattern that goes up to size 22 and will be stalking Carolyn's blog for her "sandwich" technique. That particular wardrobe has a jacket that is very reminiscent of a lovely short sleeved jacket I wore when younger and I would like to recreate that as well as the dress and the pants look great too.

So I am paraphrasing my all time favourite show (The West Wing) and I say thee NAY Buttericks, I will not purchase your plus sized crap. And I say thee NAY any other pattern company that tries to dress me in a sack.

Stay tuned for my self imposed Busting Butterick challenge when I receive the ordered regular sized pattern.

Over the course of this year I am going to sew each of those items in the wardrobe and adjust them to my size... So Butterick can go eat their poo!

Now that I have that off my chest.... the lovely JuliN has awarded me the Versatile Blogger Award. Some people don't like awards - I am not one of them!!!! I still get a spurt of pleasure when I see people have taken the time to read my blog let alone comment on it and then to award me something that says that they enjoy reading it.... who am I to turn up my nose at that - I - like a love starved puppy - am wagging my tail and wiggling my butt all over the place. So thank you JuliN. You can catch her at her great blog The Happy Homemaker.

Here are the rules: DON'T FORGET TO READ TO THE END FOR MY GIVEAWAY PRIZE

If you are nominated, you’ve been awarded the Versatile Blogger award.

•  Thank the person who gave you this award. That’s common courtesy.
•  Include a link to their blog. That’s also common courtesy — if you can figure out how to do it.
•  Next, select 15 blogs/bloggers that you’ve recently discovered or follow regularly. ( I would add, pick blogs or bloggers that are excellent!)
•  Nominate those 15 bloggers for the Versatile Blogger Award — you might include a link to this site.
•  Finally, tell the person who nominated you 7 things about yourself

15 Bloggers that you have recently discovered, follow regularly or are excellent.

Now a lot of discussion has been going on about whether people like awards, whether they want them or not. The first time I sent awards to bloggers I painstakenly went through to see if they had received awards before - this time I say - if you have already recieved it or you don't want it or don't want to do the associated work then PLEASE JUST ACCEPT IT IN THE SPIRIT IT WAS GIVEN (with hugs and kisses) and then don't do anything else. No pressure here. I will honour any blog that has the "don't want award" symbol.

First lot goes in the "can't live without" category. These sites give me inspiration, laughs, and always an interesting read. I am sure the following blogs have had awards coming out of their eyeballs and probably don't want anymore - but hey - you don't have to do anything - you don't even have to acknowledge it. I just want to say thank you.

No need to say check these out - I am sure everyone is very very familiar with them. In no particular order
Diary of a sewing fanatic
Handmade by Carolyn
Pretty Grievances
How good is that
Petite and Sewing
Suzy Bee Sews

The next lot goes to those blogs I have either recently found or are just blogs I would LOVE to share:

A little of what you fancy Sam is making some lovely clothes. Check it out.
The Green Violet - Megan has made me want to buy the Washi Dress Pattern
Satin Bird Designs - Andrea is making some cool clothes
The Engineer's other life - Kat has introduced me to a great looking princess seamed top that I must have!
Kelly's sewing when she is not running - check out her fab red jeans - even if the crotch is a little tight - in her opinion.
My Sewcial World - Annika is making some great clothes and participating in MMM13
GMarie Sews - Love checking out her dresses
Sewing with Cats - Alison has made some very enviable tops - and the blog name says it all. Anyone who sews with cats is a winner in my eyes!
Special mention to a bloggless Dilliander - who doesn't have a blog (that I can tell anyway) wish she would her sewing is spectacular!!

I would have loved to nominate everyone on my blog roll. To those I have nominated PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't feel obliged to do anything unless you want to.

Now for the next bit.

I decided that everyone knows enough about me that you probably don't need to read anymore SO - I thought I would do something different and make a contest out of it.

I often play true true false with my students as an icebreaker and so I shall with you too.

The rules are I have to tell you 7 things about myself - which I will do - HOWEVER one of them will be a lie.

Spot my lie and reply in comments by the end of the month and anyone who gets it right will be in the running  to be pulled out of the pot for a "surprise package" posted with love from me to you (where ever you are in our world).

If no one guesses correctly then everyone will go into the pot to be drawn out.

Here are my six facts and one fiction...

1. I have para-glided off the beach in Corfu Greece
2. I have written 2 crime novels
3. I used to lie in confession
4. I hung out with Biker gangs when I was younger
5. I have a small tattoo of a Rose on my shoulder in honour of my Grandmother Rose Evelyn Scifleet
6. I have been attacked by a Serval and have a scar on my hand from the attack
7. I have shot guns and rifles

The contest is open for anyone to enter. Only one guess per person.

Good luck.

Calling all curvy sewing fashionistas - warning - rant ahead

THIS MAKES MY BLOOD BOIL - does it make yours boil too? Or am I wanting too much?

Now I lurve a pattern that has a "Lifestyle Wardrobe" attached. One purchase - many coordinating looks.

Here is what Buttericks have brought out for us plus sized ladies - behold the plus sized Lifestyle Wardrobe .... drum roll please

Apologies for the last 2 blurry pics - apparently Buttericks  don't even want to give us good pictures - that is the best I can do.

I can't apologise for the appalling shapeless sack-like clothes - that is all on Buttericks.  Is it just me? Or does that look like it would look good on..... well .... nothing.

These go up to my size but I would rather wear a bed sheet!


Here is what they have for their regular sizes in the Lifestyle Wardrobe.

Sassy and smart.

Why oh why can't they just make these in the larger sizes? This goes up to size 22 - much too small for me - but jeeze I can see myself in these. Yes I would make the dress, skirt and jacket a tad longer but I love this look.

I know I am trying to get fit right but when they start off giving you patterns with NO waist at all - well poo to them!

My curvy sisters - is it just me???? And what can we do about it? Can we start an online petition - anyone know how to do that - and would it matter.

Sorry - my nose is severely out of joint! And what infuriates me even more is that - in my opinion - very few people will actually purchase the atrocious plus sized wardrobe so Buttericks will no doubt not blame their pattern but believe that there is not much of a market for up to size 32.

I am sorry if you actually like the plus sized wardrobe - and PLEASE let me know if you do - that will teach me not to assume - I am really interested in your thoughts.

On the positive side - the lovely JuliN has awarded me a versatile blogger award which I am thrilled to receive (can't help it - I am a sucker for an award) and I will post more when my blood stops boiling about this. 

The Overlocker - not just a pretty face!

I attended THE. MOST. AMAZING.  WORKSHOP. EVER at my local sewing guild!! The Overlocker (aka serger) workshop.

It was FABO...

I did have a wonderful video of me doing the happy dance taken by the fabulous Velosewer in her directorial debut - but I can't get it to work when uploaded - works fine on my PC and phone but - alas - doesn't seem to want to go into the bloggershere.

The workshop covered the basics of tension which is a need to know but not overly exciting... sort of like learning how to sew a straight line on a regular machine - functional and absolutely necessary to go forward - but doesn't make the heart flutter!

We then learnt how to do outer and inner corners neatly - yeah - fantastic - absolutely need to know - great info and techniques.. Believe me - this is something I have struggled with.

How good is that (sorry Velosewer - didn't mean to steal your tag) inner serged corner??? Even if I do say so myself!! Okay - I may have come off the edge a bit and the lower looper thread is showing too much - but hey - you should have seen my attempts before!

We learnt how to gather without using a special foot and to do a really nice neat rolled hem. Love the stitching on that.

I was frilled with the outcome

Close up of rolled hem

Then came the sewing with "decorative" thread. WOW WOW WOW.

How gorgeous is this.

Pretty - three thread overlocked

Rolled hem

We learnt to make decorative cord. Learnt great techniques such as using soluble vilene so that the stitches don't "jump" when making cord.

Cord without stabilisation 

Creating cord using wash away stabiliser 

AND - how to do a lacy edge

So much to take in - so little time. Having a brain spin at the moment - oh so giddy!

All in all - most pleased with self!!

Big thanks to Larraine Jenkins who taught this workshop. She is a great teacher and had wonderful typed up notes for us too!

Can't wait to start using these techniques.

Velosewer  has instructions for some of these techniques on her site.

Hot off the press - Another McCalls 2401

Here is my latest McCalls 2401.

This is the V-Neck version and I am happy with it.

I finished pressing it last night and wore it to work today. I trained in the beautiful and prestigious Art Deco hotel -  The Grace - in the Sydney CBD today and I felt good enough in this Made By Me dress to wear to The Grace. (Cardi is RTW).

Excuse the grumpy face - I was tired.

Here is the dress sans cardi. I always wear something over my arms in public.

I don't think the flash went off in the above - had to lighten it considerably. Excuse ugly bruise on leg - I dropped the vacuum cleaner on myself  ... that's what happens when you try to clean!

I love this fabric - it is a tribal print - quite thick knit (but not as thick as the last brown dress) from Sawyer Brooks. It was originally going to be a Pamela's Pattern's T-Shirt but I had enough for a dress and Voila - here it is. Sad thing is - the fabric looks like it is going to pill easily - damn!

Here is a close up of neck line:

Happy with results. Next one will have sleeves. Not much more to add.

This is my next item for the Sew Your Own Wardrobe for a Year Challenge

Please indulge me while I will leave you with a few gratuitous pictures of "The Grace". She is beautiful and I love going there.

The Beautiful Foyer

Where I eat Lunch

Where I teach

She is special

Photos from the Grace Hotel Website.

StyleArc Marni Ponti Jacket - The Redemption - and the next McCalls 2401

Well - I am NOW one happy chook and back in love with "Marni".

The happy dance has returned.

I have stretched my skills - had some major downs but am pleased with the results. There is room for improvement but - for a first go - okay.

Still have to work out the closure so I am holding it closed.

There are a few "home made" errors that I can see but I will wear it happily.

I can't believe how well it went together - especially as I have added a bit to the pattern (all the dramas were major user error).

StyleArc patterns only allow you to purchase one size, so I chose one a couple of sizes smaller than my size (for shoulder fitting) and added an inch to the sides (which would be four inches added to chest and waist area.

I made the sleeves shorter (again user error) - but I am happy with the look of the cuffs at the end rather than folded up.

I also added a bit to the seam allowance as StyleArc only have minimal seam allowance and I read the review by Margy who said a thicker knit was difficult to get the seams to lay flat with the 3/8 inch seam allowance so I added enough to bring it up to 5/8 inch. Recommendation to anyone buying this pattern. If you are going to do it in a thicker knit and cut a more generous seam allowance - do it when cutting out the paper for the pattern I cut the pattern first and then tried to remember to cut the more generous allowance when cutting the fabric.

I also used a lot of  (well actually all of) the hints and tips on PattyE's review. There was some really great advice there complimented by several construction photos.

I really couldn't have done this jacket without the help of these lovely ladies. StyleArc do not have great instructions and I did struggle with some of them. Glad to have had read these reviews on PR.

The only problem with the pattern is that it asks you to cut 2 pairs of cuffs. But only one pair is used.

Apart from the above changes - I did nothing else. I didn't lower the bust point as I normally do. I think it looks okay where it is.

I didn't lengthen the pattern at all. I think it all hits where it should. If I were to make one to wear with trousers I would make it longer but for a dress it is good.

I did add shoulder pads.

Overall - even though I struggled with my errors, I really love this pattern. I am already planning another.

What I have learnt:

• How to do a Shawl Collar in knit
• To check all positioning and that fabric and pieces are the right way up before sewing
• How to do a split cuff
• How to cover and attach shoulder pads (not included in pattern)
• How to do a pleat and line it up (well almost line it up - that is one of my "errors" - user, not pattern error. But I did learn from it so I have included in list.
• How to sew a knit JACKET!!! Woo hoo - my first jacket. Okay okay - it is not a lined jacket with notched collar, pockets and lots of buttons etc - but it is a jacket and I am happy.
• Did I mention to check positions and sides of pattern before sewing!!!

Still need to work out the "closure" on the jacket. Bit afraid of doing a buttonhole in case I stuff it up.

Also featured in this week's line up is my latest incarnation of McCalls 2401.

I ended up with enough fabric for a dress and I am very happy with this version.

Keep in mind that the new dress is in a MUCH thicker fabric and also a thickish (tricot) lining so it is showing as a little tighter (read clingy) than the last version and it hangs a little different. I will keep this in mind for future dresses.

I was going to split the difference between the shorter version and the longer version of the dress but on advice of most commentators I bit the bullet and cut the inch off the pattern itself - hence making it shorter. I have bowed to the wisdom of the many.

I also pegged it in about half an inch on each side (2 inches in all).

In addition I added a bit of a higher back neckline and shaved an inch off the front neckline.

 Here it is in comparison to last.

If I do another scoop neck I will scoop it out even more - my next version will be a v-neck.

Higher back.

I didn't do a v-neck for this version as I am playing with the thought of a little bit of embroidery along the neckline.

I thought that before I did the pattern alteration that Carolyn advised to remove the gaping neckline, I would try and see how the lower neckline dealt with it as it only seemed to gape up high. It seemed to work. Thanks to Carolyn for the advice.

I added a tricot lining as the ponte is very thick - almost like a wool - and hence a little scratchy on my delicate skin. I top stitched the neckline and armholes.

This is how it all looks together - along with the lovely purse sent to me by Anne at Pretty Grievances. I think the gold of the purse looks lovely with the brown. I have added reptile like shoes to complete the animal accessories.

I am really liking the look of the "suit" HOWEVER....... I didn't figure into the equation the thickness of the fabric when I made it. I was so impressed by the quality of the ponte that I immediately thought of this suit.. I am thinking I will have to move to Tassy to be able to wear it. It doesn't get that cold here in Sydney and I tend to run a few degrees hotter than most people as it is. Wearing the dress and jacket together makes me feel like I am in a furnace. May feel different in the depths of winter but I doubt it. My summer and winter wardrobe usually only changes with the addition of a cardi.

Oh well - they will be good as separates.

A close up of the lovely purse. Hard to catch with the flash - it is a gorgeous gold and brown on a black background. Thanks Anne.

.


I have great plans for my TNT - I promised myself I wouldn't plan anymore. My plans seem to always come to naught. My recent sign up for the Artisan's Square SWAP is one such failed plan. Life got in the way and then I became infatuated with the TNT and my first (knit) jacket.

This plan is not a date driven one - it is just what fabric I want to use to create more dresses.

One plan I am following is the "sew your own wardrobe for a year" challenge. Vita and Natalea are hosting this challenge - to shun RTW and make it yourself. This Marni Jacket and the 2401 are my first items for this challenge.

You can read all about it here.

Hope your sewing is going well.

StyleArc Marni Ponti Jacket - Progress

Firstly - let me say a HUGE thank you to all of those who have given me advice on my TNAT pattern. It is greatly appreciated. It is always great to get another perspective and I really respect the advice.

Thanking you all

Overwhelmingly the vote was for the shorter length - with just a couple of dissenting views. It's funny, I look at it and even after so many people have said the shorter looks better, I think the longer looks more "lady like" (and when did I become a  prude - or a lady for that matter??? Maybe it was when I turned 50! - after all - the shorter version is hardly a mini skirt - only an inch shorter). I am going to try splitting the difference and trying just a smidge shorter first. 

I may also take the approach of lighter / more casual fabric shorter, heavier or more sophisticated fabric the longer length. I have some gorgeous fabrics that are just screaming to be made into that pattern. I am definitely going to peg it in a little as advised.

I also had some feedback on doing a V-neck and I totally think this is a great idea. I am a little "afraid" of the v-neck. Easy to do as a cross over - but will have to try out the straight V-neck.

Now to current sewing news:

I don't normally do progress reports. Mainly because I guess my past sewing has been quick and also I haven't been this discouraged before.

I am one unhappy chook.

Nothing to do with the pattern - I actually really like the way the pattern is coming together. No - unfortunately this is pure user error - compounded by more user error - and then yet more.

User has now crashed and refuses to work anymore today.

Yesterday I was so happy with my progress I was doing the happy dance around the house.

Now I sit here dejected - if I had a glass of wine I would be crying into it. Instead I am venting my spleen on the computer in the chance that if I ever sew again I will read this and remember my mistakes.

Here is the "torso".

So far so good. Happy with the look and how it is coming together.

The shiny irony patches don't show up in life. The flash has picked them up. Proof however that I do press as I sew. Note to self - use ironing cloth in future.

Fit is good on me.

So - what is the problem I hear you ask?

Well - let me give you a bit of background.

As you have to choose one size with StyleArc, I chose a size a couple down from my size and added an inch  to the sides - which adds 4 inches of - well let's call it "volume".

Problem is - I forgot to add the inch to the sides of the sleeves - so they were too small for the armhole.

No biggie - I purchased plenty of fabric - enough for a matching dress and "wriggle room"..

I cut myself some more sleeves and sat down to sew.

All looking good.

Smile still on face - no longer dancing around the place in joy but humming to self whilst Dog Whisperer is on in background (don't know why - don't have dog - do like Cesare Milan's techniques though - but it don't work on cats - *sigh*).

First step - sew cuffs. A bit tricky but because of the review from PattiE on PR I worked it out.

Cool - looking good.

Attach sleeve to cuff. Great job - fit nicely.. Turn right side out.

DOH - attached so that seam allowance of cuff is on outside of sleeve. See nicely pressed sleeve seam at bottom of picture.

Oh well - a bit of time to be spent with stitch picker - still smiling - no longer humming - Cesare Milan is espousing "Calm Assertiveness" - I can do that - I can be calm and assert myself on the sleeve.

Cuff now unpicked and stitched properly to sleeve - all good.

Sew second sleeve and cuff. Looks good - Trim excess seam allowance to reduce bulk - iron nicely.

Pull sleeve up arm to look - split on cuff on INSIDE of arm.... DOH DOH DOH.

No longer smiling! Cesare raving on about perseverance and patience, harmony and balance - Aargh!! Cesare is starting to SH*T me. Switch Cesare off and put on DVD of 24. Terrorists, torture and Jack Bauer to save us all. Much better. (I wonder if Jack can sew - he saves the day everywhere else - why not in the sewing room - Hey great idea for a show - "Sewing Rescue" go into the homes of sewists like me and save their sanity -- hmm -- but I digress.).

Take deep breath and go and cut new sleeve and cuff - more fabric used up. Starting to think short may be the only available length for brown dress.

CAREFULLY sew sleeve and cuff. Take another deep breath. Looks good. Iron, try on arm. All good. Edges of lips start to twitch.

Now have 2 sleeves with cuffs.

CAREFULLY pin sleeve to jacket - check notches match. Attach sleeve to jacket.

Sleeve fits nice into armhole. Sews up beautifully - no cap ease worries at all. Edge of lips twitch a bit more.

Iron seam allowances flat.

Pull right side out to try on.

Sleeve picked up - shoulder of Marni (pattern) in background. How the Bleep did this happen? The damn sleeve is INSIDE OUT!

Throw Marni on floor and curl into fetal position on couch. Worry that since the notches matched up - does this mean I have sewed the whole sleeve inside out? Will I need to cut more sleeves and cuffs? Dress is getting shorter by the minute. At this rate I will only have enough fabric left for a pair of bike shorts...

Mental picture of self in brown ponte bike shorts makes me laugh out loud. Restores good humour.

Pick Marni off floor - after all - it is not her fault. She is a good pattern. Don't have the energy to unpick and see if I need to cut more fabric.

Marni is now keeping Babs warm until I am ready to face her again. Probably next weekend.  Luckily Babs doesn't have arms. Weird experience of lots of disembodied sleeves floating around the house...

BTW - I shortened the sleeves when cutting this pattern out. I thought that StyleArc must have thought that if you are a larger lady you must have very long arms. After checking PattiE's review to put in the link I realised that the cuff - was exactly that - a cuff to be folded up. Not an end piece of the sleeve - more to think about.

Please - all you great sewists out there - please tell me you have had days like this. Not to depress you but to make me feel less stupid.

Plus sized pattern pyramid

If you are stalking the Plus sized pattern pyramid, it is now with:

Dixie at With Needle and Brush

and

Chris at Chrislucas.com.au